Cades Cove Scenic Drive is a Trip Back in Time
Above photo: The 11-mile driving loop takes visitors through Cades Cove.
Story and photos by Tom Uhlenbrock
Tom is an award-winning travel writer and journalist based in St. Louis.
Visit log homes, churches and other buildings from the early 1800s on a relaxing 11-mile drive.
Cades Cove is about 25 miles off the main road through Great Smoky Mountains National Park in Tennessee, but it takes you back some 200 years. And driving there is a delight.
To get to Cades Cove, detour off Newfound Gap Road onto Little River Road, which becomes Laurel Creek Road. The two-lane blacktop winds under a canopy of green – the rock face of a mountain on one side and a sparkling stream tumbling through moss-covered boulders on the other.
The scenery is so picture-perfect that on they day we took the drive a young man picked one of the frequent turnouts to get down on bended knee and propose, as traffic crawled by.
Laurel Creek Road ends in a landscape of rolling meadows with haze-covered ridges as a backdrop. Welcome to Cades Cove, a valley between mountains.
An 11-mile, one-way road loops through Cades Cove, featuring stops at the log homes, churches, mills and graveyards of the Europeans who arrived in the early 1800s to farm the rich soils. By 1900, the 125 families who lived in the valley used the same road tourists drive along today.
Some 80 historic buildings remain in the cove, and John Oliver’s cabin is the oldest log home among them. Oliver arrived in the valley around 1820, and his land remained in the family until the national park was established more than a century later.
Three churches are among the buildings, and they are open to visitors. One of them, the Primitive Baptist Church, was established in 1827 but closed during the Civil War due to conflicting loyalties.
The Cable Mill Historic Area and the Cades Cove Visitor Center mark the midway point of the drive. The area’s buildings include the original water-powered grist mill, a blacksmith shop, a barn of cantilever construction and a house built with lumber sawed at the mill.
Native Americans camped and hunted in the cove before European settlers arrived. Today, the only permanent residents are the turkey, deer and other wildlife that roam the fields.
There are 1,500 black bears in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and they regularly come down from the forests in search of food at the cove, especially in the late afternoon during summer and fall.
The slow-moving procession of vehicles comes to a halt at “bear jams” when one of the bears makes an appearance.
But it’s a minor inconvenience. Nobody is in a hurry when driving the loop through Cades Cove.
RelatedView all articles
Read more stories about national parks.
Hot Springs National Park features Bathhouse Row and the first brewery in a national park.
Exploring wide-open spaces now makes perfect sense.
Solitude and stunning vistas prevail in one of America’s least visited parks.
The only national park in the Northeast has stunning fall scenery and unique carriage roads.
An autumn camping trip offers serenity and easy social distancing.
All the destinations are beautiful and within a day’s drive.
A world traveler reconnects with her California roots.
The 409-mile drive across Nevada features sand dunes, hot springs and plenty of social distancing.
A national park and nearby parkway offer stunning views of the ancient Appalachians.
The iconic saguaro cactus is a symbol of the Southwest.
A loose travel itinerary allows discoveries around every turn.
Montana’s gem offers different rewards during the season of stillness.
A father and daughter bond while photographing the Milky Way.
Just a 50-mile drive from Chicago, America’s 61st National Park has much to offer.
Six family members immerse themselves in nature and attempt to bond.
Utah's first national park spawns creativity in visitors.
Protect your gear and yourself from freezing temperatures.
During the cold-weather months, the park offers spectacular scenes of wildlife.
The Love family embraces winter in Colorado to experience a new adventure.
College friends reunite in a desert wonderland with a deepened appreciation for each other.
After suffering loss, a lifelong traveler reconnects with relatives and creates lasting memories.
The All-American road traverses slickrock and features a petrified forest, a beautiful waterfall and gourmet dining.
Visit log homes, churches and other buildings from the early 1800s on a relaxing 11-mile road trip.
Visit the Southwest’s most otherworldly natural attraction.
From A (Acadia) to Z (Zion), national parks offer ideal destinations for a weekend trip or longer vacation.
An easy road trip takes you from a world-class city to a top national park.
A trip from Denver to Montana shows off the vast and varied scenery in the U.S.
Mount Hood, Smith Rock and Crater Lake are high spots of the state’s interior.
The remote area in the Gulf of Mexico is a prime spot for snorkeling and diving.
From roaring waterfalls to colorful trees, the park is a year-round spectacle.
The drive from Olympic National Park to San Francisco features spectacular views of towering forests.
Utah's national parks are beautiful during the day and turn to a magnificent spectacle at night.